Friday, July 8, 2011

Oxford’s Inklings and Ham in Hay

For those of you who are captivated by J.R.R. Tolkien’s Hobbit and Lord of the Rings



The Hobbit 1937 Edition


The Lion the Witch and The Wardrobe  first edition  1950 ($17,500.)


–– who love The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe by C.S. Lewis



Place of the Lion by Charles Williams, published 1931

–– for those lucky few who have fallen under the spell of the rare and precious  The Place of the Lion, by Charles Williams



or  rarer still,  Owen Barfield’s The Silver Trumpet –– well, you may not know it but they are all related and rooted in the city and University of Oxford. 


 


All 4 men were great friends at Oxford for most of their adult lives and joined together to become The Inklings, a club like no other. 

As I walk the streets of Oxford, whispers of their lives and writing are all around me.  I’ve loved their books most of my life and thought I’d tell you a little bit about them.  They really were a remarkable group of men.  Their imaginations have inspired generations and none of it might have happened if all the stars hadn’t aligned and put them in Oxford at just the right moment, influenced by 2 world wars.

University College, Oxford Fox Talbot, 1843 

JRR Tolkien, CS Lewis, Arthur Greeves, George Stewart Gordon and Nevill Coghill began their fellowship and shared love of ‘Northerness’ when they created the Kolbitars club to share their enjoyment of ancient Norse myths in the 1920’s (in Icelandic society, Kolbitars are young men who sit so close to the fire they are nearly biting the coal ––they are uncertain, dreamy outsiders, trying to find their soul’s calling). When Lewis was first up at University College, Edward Tangye-Lean (who was tutored by Lewis) began a literary group (that included Tolkien) that was created to read one another’s works and offer support and criticism with a less restricted subject matter than that of Kolbitars. That group ended but the idea was continued and Lewis appropriated the name “Inklings” and the Kolbitars members were folded into the new club.



They began to meet at Lewis’s rooms at Magdalen College, Oxford. In Lewis’s brother’s book, Brothers and Friends “Warnie” Lewis remembered that Tolkien thought the name was amusing because it referred to “people with vague or half-formed intimations and ideas plus those who dabble in ink”. The name was first used in a 1936 letter from Lewis to Charles Williams inviting him to come to  “an informal club called the Inklings.”


The group spent a good deal of time at the Eagle and Child (save when the establishment ran out of beer during the war or closed for renovations).  They also met at The Lamb and Flag, The King’s Arms, The White Horse as well as the Eastgate Hotel, the Mitre and the Trout.


After the war they often met at Tolkien’s rooms at Merton College.

The club lasted from 1937-49 and grew to include Lord David Cecil, Henry Dyson, Tolkien’s son Christopher and many others.  During this time the men met, drank, ate and walked miles (to the Trout at Godstow or along Addison’s walk at Magdalen College), all the while discussing one another’s work, Christianity and myths.  These brilliant men fed off one another, bouncing ideas and refining their beliefs.
Owen Barfield 1898-1997

Owen Barfield made a name for himself as a great philosopher and teacher (although he went into law in London for many years to better support his family). Lewis thought of him as a mentor (Barfield said that Lewis “taught me how to think and I taught him what to think…” eventually convincing him to believe in “the power and truth of imagination.”
He went on to write brilliant books like History in English Words, Poetic Diction: A Study in Meaning and Saving the Appearances: A Study in Idolatry (and, full disclosure, Dr. Lostpast studied with him and thought he was a genius). Barfield’s fantasy contribution, The Silver Trumpet from 1925 brought out the importance of feeling in life as exemplified in a silver trumpet that awakens life when it is present and the tale sparkles with the courage of the characters as they perform their quest. Although critics at the time worried it was too much for children, Tolkien’s own children loved the story that proposed that reason laced with feeling could lead to truth… a powerful and profound notion. Lewis told Barfield the Tolkien children appreciated the strong feelings that the book inspired.  Barfield decided to write a fairytale first because he felt it was the best form to deliver his ideas… making this the first of the fantasies that predated the formation of the Inklings but influenced them nonetheless.  Inklings and their works inspired one another.

Charles Williams 1886-1945

Charles Williams had written The Place of the Lion about lions as platonic archetypes creating mayhem in an English village (with giant eagles, unicorns, snakes and butterflies) in 1931 in his very singular style of supernatural thriller that explored the physical and spiritual world of the present with special emphasis on the negative influence of power in both worlds. 

Tolkien 1892-1973

Tolkien’s Hobbit (published in 1937) evolved into the Lord of the Rings (written between 1937 and 1949).  They became the 2nd and 3rd best-selling novels ever written in the whole world with 250 million copies sold (Tale of 2 Cities is #1, The Lion The Witch and The Wardrobe is 6th)!  For it, Tolkien developed a whole mythology (inspired by his love of Nordic myth) and even created working languages and alphabets (he was a master philologist) for his beautifully crafted fantasy.  It used the quest myth as its basis… an archetypal human myth that resonates with us all.  The brave little every-man Bilbo Baggins was a character the British public could identify with as the war was revving up.  The Hobbit showed them heroism came in unlikely packages and the story was influenced by Tolkien’s patriotic love of Anglo-Saxon literature… especially Beowulf. I was frankly surprised that the worldwide bestseller list is top heavy with works that celebrate heroic ordinary men that triumph in extraordinary times against all odds.
Tolkien even toyed with elements from The Hobbit using the Inklings as characters in The Notion Club Papers written in 1945.   The Notion club/Inkling members were pushed forward in time, had their names changed and moved through time and space all the while discussing the power of words and legends.  

C.S. Lewis  1898-1963

Lewis wrote of that time in Surprised by Joy, “Nearly all that I loved I believed to be imaginary; nearly all that I believed to be real I thought grim and meaningless.” The Lion The Witch and The Wardrobe was inspired by real, war-orphaned children escaping London’s Blitz to stay with Lewis at his house, The Kilns.  He was impressed by their courage and combined that story with a vision of a fawn with an umbrella carrying packages in the snow that he had been carrying around in his mind since he was 16.  In It All Began with a Picture Lewis said he decided at 40,  “Let’s try to make a story about it.”  Dreams of lions followed (inspired by Williams, perhaps?), Aslan was born and the book was finished in 1949 (and dedicated to Barfield’s daughter, and Lewis’s god-daughter, Lucy).

CS Lewis found religion thanks to his friends after the horrors of the WW1 drove him to atheism.  I read in Poe’s The Inklings at Oxford that during the dark horrible days of WW2 Lewis used his brilliance and noble spirit like a great nurturer, ladling soul-sustaining broth to the beleaguered nation frightened by the advancing madman in radio broadcasts beginning with “Right and Wrong: A Clue to the Meaning of the Universe” followed by “What Christians Believe,  “Christian Behavior” and finishing with “Beyond Personality: The Christian View of God”.  He wrote science fiction that had deep moral allegories that reflected the war-ravaged times, questioning what exists in the nature of man that made him capable of performing atrocities in Out of the Silent Planet.  He wrote to Arthur C Clarke questioning our use of technology “ I agree Technology is per se neutral: but a race devoted to the increase of its power by technology with complete indifference to ethics does seem to me a cancer in the universe.  Certainly if he goes on his present course much further man can not be trusted with knowledge.”  He even wrote the delightful Screwtape Letters toward the end of WW2 that contained letters from a senior demon named Screwtape to a junior demon named Wormwood about how to damn a British man known as the Patient.  Its charming defense of the goodness of the common man was timely for war-torn England.  These were a people, exhausted by the reality of war that needed great uplifting fantasy. It was very popular and made a name for Lewis.

The time of the Inklings was also a time of physical privation in England.  These were hard times for the stomach as well as the spirit.  The country imported 70% of their food for their 50 million people.  Food rationing began in 1940 (although gas, paper ––even soap and clothing were rationed) and rationing didn’t fully end until 1954!




Meals, even at Oxford, were not richly provisioned because of the severe shortages (citrus fruit was almost non-existent) so it was good to have an American friend like Dr. Warfield Firor, a neurosurgeon from Baltimore.  He sent generous care packages of luxuries from the states to his friend CS Lewis.  His hams were the stuff of legend in those hard, rationed times.

In a letter written in September 1948, Lewis thanks Firor for his kindnesses:  “Nothing arouses so much excitement amongst my friends as the welcome news that  ‘a Firor ham’ has arrived; and we have eaten many an noble supper at your expense, not forgetting to drink your health in whatever liquour was available.”

That letter did it –– I decided ham would be my Inkling’s dish.

I looked at Constance Spry Cookery Book and a recipe caught my eye for a ham with hay –– very English.

Now hay has been much in the news lately, everyone from Noma to Alinea to meat masters like Fergus Henderson are using it for the flavor it imparts.  This hay cooking has been going on for a very long time.  In French it’s called “dans le foin” or “ au foin”.   Hannah Woolly writes of it in her Queen-like Closet in the 17th century. There she boils ham in hay with cloves and then puts it in a “gammon pie” with sausage, wine, oysters, bay and whole spice and serves it with sweet mustard. I may be out of my mind, but find that it adds a nearly kelp-like flavor... like a dashi when I used premium sweet grass from my friend Dan Gibson at Grazin Angus Acres.  He uses it in his finishing fields for his delicious beef cattle.

Elizabeth David mentions pork in an old Lincolnshire style with violet and marigold leaves.

I figured I’d put a few together for my Inkling Ham… one that would be perfect for a summer meal or on a cold winter night.




Baked Ham Lissanoure from Constance Spry (Lissanoure is an Irish Castle)

Ham (this would be for 2 1/2 lbs…. change as you will)
1 onion
2 carrots
3 stalks of celery 
(4 cups?) of hay  (it is grass, so you could cut some from your lawn and dry it out as long as there is no chemicals in the grass... just make sure you know where your hay comes from!  Ask a favorite purveyor at your local farmer's market)

a handful of marigold leaves, violet leaves, hyssop, costmary leaves (use a combination of whatever you have… substituting mint, parsley and marjoram for what you don’t have)
1 -2 T smoked salt if ham is not salty

25 cloves
¼ c brown sugar
2T apricot jam (optional)
1 bottle cider or stout
2 strips bacon, optional (if the ham has a cut face, put the bacon over the cut surface to keep it from drying out).

Line the bottom of a pot with the hay.  Sprinkle the hay with the herbs and vegetables.  Add water to cover.  Simmer gently for 25 minutes. Add the ham and bring up to a simmer (about 10 minutes) then turn off and allow to cool down.  Let rest in the water for an hour (the original called for simmering the ham 25 minutes to the pound, this was too much... I felt it dried the ham out... if you were using a salty, large country ham, this would work).

Heat oven to 300º. Drain, toss out the hay, vegetables and herbs.   Check the ham for salt, sprinkle with salt if needed Stick the ham with cloves and cover thickly with sugar, pour the cider around the ham and bake 40 minutes, basting with care.  If your ham does not have any fat, you might want to add a little bacon to keep the ham moist.  Remove the ham and tent.  Reduce the liquid by 1/2 and moisten the ham with it as you serve it.


Next week, while I'm off tromping around England,  the wonderful Laura Kelly from Silk Road Gourmet will be at the helm doing a guest post.  It is sure to be exotic and brilliant so you are in for a treat if you've never seen her blog.  I'm sure you will become a fan once you do!

Also, stop over to 12 Bottle Bar and see what they have to say about Oxford Drinks, having found a stellar drink book from the University that was packed with goodies!   You will love the Brown Betty!







Friday, July 1, 2011

What did Frederic Church Eat at Olana? Chicken Curry and Apple Custard!

Olana

Olana view from Julianne Zaleta of Herbal Alchemy 


A few weeks ago, our little group of foodies and scenties, Rebecca Wizenreid of  3 Points Kitchen, Julianne Zaleta of  Herbal Alchemy and Lucy Raubertas of  Indie Perfumes and myself (we need a name, ladies –– Les Dames de l’Alchemie, La Confrérie des Alchemistes?), drove a few hours north of NYC to visit Frederic Church’s Olana, perched high above the Hudson River near by the diminutive Rip Van Winkle Bridge and antique mecca, Hudson NY. It was a spectacular spring day and the lovely ride up from the city was a perfect way to mentally dissolve our constraining city suits and don the nurturing spiritual raiments of Arcadia.   


The house is dazzling and eccentric and attracted many famous figures in the 19th century with the gracious hospitality of its owner (don't worry, I'll share some original recipes served at Olana).  If that isn't enough, the view is one of the most breathtaking on the East coast and nearly unchanged from the 19th century.

Frederic Edwin Church (1826-1900)

Frederic Edwin Church was a premier member of the Hudson River School of Painting.  A child of privilege from Hartford, Connecticut, his father Joseph was a silversmith who became a director of Aetna Life Insurance.  When young Church showed an interest in painting, family friend, Daniel Wadsworth  (of the Wadsworth Atheneum in Connecticut) introduced Frederic Church to Thomas Cole in 1844 and Cole took the 18 year old under his wing (Cole founded the Hudson River School  in 1825). Church thrived under his tutelage and success came quickly to the young artist.

Heart of the Andes

Church’s sensational early work, Heart of the Andes, was painted in 1859 after he traveled to South America in 1853 and 1857.  There he sketched images of incomparable beauty and majesty that he found there and those sketches would be worked into his oil paintings when he returned to New York.  Church was inspired by naturalist and explorer, Alexander von Humbolt,  the author of Kosmos and a true polymath who believed landscape painting was a superior expression of love of nature –– a quality he reverenced (Dr. Lost Past tells me he cast a giant shadow, Carl Sagan's Cosmos was so named in homage to von Humbolt).  Humbolt’s writings also motivated Church to go to the Arctic in 1859. Church was also influenced by John Ruskin’s Modern Painters  where Ruskin: “ emphasized the scrutiny of nature”.   Ruskin believed “To see clearly is poetry, prophecy and religion–– all in one.” 





Church made a lot of money with the painting by charging admission (12,000 people paid 25¢ to view it) at New York’s Studio Building on West 10th Street.  At the time, the painting had a remarkable effect on its viewers, “women felt faint. Both men and women succumb[ed] to the dizzying combination of terror and vertigo that they recognize[d] as the sublime. Many of them will later describe a sensation of becoming immersed in, or absorbed by, this painting, whose dimensions, presentation, and subject matter speak of the divine power of nature” said Wikipedia . It was monumental (nearly 5’x10’ not including the enormous frame). The painting was later purchased for  $10,000 … the most paid for a painting by a living American artist to date (it was bequeathed it to the Metropolitan Museum in 1909).  Oh yes, Church was one of the founding trustees of NYC’s Metropolitan Museum of Art!



The work impressed one young lady to be sure. Church met his wife to be, the lovely Isabel Carnes at the exhibition.

The Arabic writing says, marhaba, which is welcome in English in Julianne’s Photo

Newly married, Church had engaged Richard Morris Hunt  to build his charming ferme ornée called Cosy Cottage for a country get-away (he lived and had his studio in NYC) on his first piece of property on the Hudson. When he bought more property on the mountain-top (his estate eventually encompassed 250 acres with a 10 acre lake and a profitable working farm), Hunt submitted a plan for a French chateau-style house, which Church approved.  Then Church changed his mind.  Inspired by a tour of the Middle East (1867-8), he dismissed Hunt and enlisted Calvert Vaux, famed Central Park architect, to manifest his new vision. Author Louis Werner discovered in a letter Church had written to a friend, “Having undertaken to get my architecture from Persia, where I have never been –– not any of my friends either –– I am obliged to imagine Persian architecture –– to embody it on paper… I made it out of my own head.” Vaux took to the project and was as passionate about it as the owner.  The house was completed in 1872.



Petra by Frederic Church 1874

Petra (made famous in the Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade film) had an enormous effect on Frederic Church.  Louis Werner, in his article, “A Treasure house on the Hudson”  revealed that Church wrote in his travel journal “The tombs, many of them, were cut in a rich orange-red rock full of waving shades.  Sometimes the rock was a lovely dove tint also full of graded tints.  I never beheld anything so beautiful in rocks.” “This wonderful temple is cut in the face of a tremendous precipice which is of a black color with an olive tinge in it.  The rock when freshly exposed is of a beautiful reddish salmon color miscalled pink by some travelers.  It is wonderful to see so lovely and luminous a color blazing out of black stern frightful rocks…”


Church used Petra’s colors on Olana’s walls.  Petra was also the subject of one of my favorite of his paintings with his magical view of Petra through the siq—a rock passageway that opens on the monument (admission –– I love Petra too!).  Church was worried he’d be overtaken by roving bandits at any moment as he did sketches of the site:  “I flung open my pocket sketchbook and drew the scene roughly, we then dashed down the path and seized another view, an so on, sketching and running until we reached the narrow plain below where the camels had long preceded us.” This painting was given to his wife as a gift.  In its monumental frame (created by Church for the painting), it has remained on the sitting room wall for well over a century.

The designs for the veritable riot of stenciled graphics all over the house came from 19th century pattern books of Middle Eastern motifs.  Church executed most of the sketches for the designs based on these books but did not paint them himself.  They are remarkable and in perfect condition.



























From Olana historic site 

Sadly, the kitchen is undergoing renovations so I wasn’t able to view it or photograph the charming pantry full of the families’ dishes (no photography is permitted in the house), but the dining room is remarkably quirky and full of rather somber old masters I imagine Church gathered on his European trips.  Judging from contemporary letters and journals, it seems the dinners there were anything but somber…. They were charming! Church had a vast collection of native costumes from all over the world (some of which are on display) that were often worn at dinners as well as being used for his paintings.  They must have been very colorful affairs judging from the costumes that I saw with wild hats, curl-toed shoes and dashing robes… there are fun photographs of the family dressed up in the costumes.

The remarkably accommodating Librarian for Olana, Ida Brier, was kind enough to send me accounts of the 19th century table at Olana:




“Research has shown that some dinners were formal affairs, where all wore evening dress and the different courses were each served on separate plates.  Other meals were less formal, with all the food laid on the table at one time and passed around.  All visitors concurred that an abundance of food was always found and that the produce of the farm was always included. They write of dinners of chicken, green peas,  new corn, potatoes, wild berries & cream and cake and the table set with old silver things.   And as Church noted:  “We are not ashamed to offer our friends ham and eggs – in fact we are rather proud we have it to offer – and if we come a little short in our fare at supper – we usually recompense our hungry guests by a substantial sunset.” (FEC to Prof. O. Rood, May 16, 1875.  Collection Columbia University Libraries, Special Collections.)  Sounding entirely modern, he writes to his friend Mr. Warner just before Thanksgiving in 1888:  “We are preparing to celebrate the Morrow.  I got my Turkies from Rhode Island which is celebrated for the breed . . . Its better for the flesh of any animal or bird not to have suffered much in Mind or body just before death.” (Archives, Olana State Historic Site)”


The Olana Crayon, the Newsletter for Olana 

Further, in an article in The Olana Crayon called The Hidden Olana, Food, Glorious Food, Brier and her fellow author Valerie Balint quoted one guest –– author, artist and fellow world traveler, Susan Hale  : “We have delicious things to eat, did I mention it? All out of the garden . . . cream, ice cream of the same, and wonderful floating islands, & such, with Mexican dulces with odd names, forms of guava and nougat.” … “Breakfast is very punctual at eight.  The neat maid twangles a triangle to summon us, and we meet in the superb dining room . . . Exquisite flowers arranged only by Mrs. Church are always on the table, and every plate and pitcher and napkin is chosen for its beauty or prettiness.  . . . Delicious cream and perfect coffee, burnt in the only machine of its kind in the world . . . Coffee is served after dinner in little cups with exquisite little spoons, each one different, in the shape of some flower or leaf; all these things are Mr. Church’s taste.”  Susan Hale to Lucretia Hale, July 6, 1884, while visiting Olana  "Letters of Susan Hale", Caroline Atkinson, ed. 1918. pg 141.

Brier reported:Church was very fond of coffee, and always sending coffee beans to his friends - 2 bags of Colima coffee to Samuel Clemens, 140 lbs of coffee to his daughter and son-in-law; and a later shipment of Oaxaca coffee sent to them with the admonition to age it for 2 years(!)” 


The house is full of books that are original to the house and Brier was kind enough to give me a listing of some of the cookery/housekeeping books in the library.  Astonishingly, they are all now available online… I include links to them.  

The housekeeping / cookbooks found in the historic library include: 

Elizabeth Miller, In the Kitchen (1875)
Maria Parloa, Miss Parloa’s Kitchen Companion 
               (Boston:Estes & Lauriat, 1887) 
Parkes, Mrs. William, Domestic Duties - or, Instructions to Young Married Ladies: On the Management Of Their Households, and the Regulation Of Their Conduct In the Various Relations and Duties of Married Life/Third American Edition.-- NY: J.& J. Harper, 1829;
Barker, Lady, First Lessons in the Principles of Cooking: in three parts.--London:  McMillan & Co, 1874;  
Mrs. Putnam,Mrs. Putnams's Receipt Book and Young Housekeepers Assistant.-- NY:  Oakley and Mason, 1867; 
Mary F. Henderson, Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving (New York:  Harper, 1886); 

The Olana Crayon article continues: “There are numerous cookbooks in the Olana Archives, and many contain handwritten receipts, as recipes were called at that time.  Within In the Kitchen, a cookbook written in 1875 by Elizabeth S. Miller, are numerous pages written in Isabel Church’s own hand in sections entitled For Additional Receipts.  These collected recipes include everything from Calves Liver a la Mode to Bishop’s Buns to Sweet Waffles and are often denoted by the name of the person who gave Isabel the recipe.”



One of these came from Thomas Appleton, who Brier writes was: “a well-known poet and essayist, as well as a patron of the arts and sometime painter. There are several recipes from Appleton written in Isabel [Church]’s cookbooks, and a letter by Frederic references both this dessert and a soup dish when thanking Appleton for a lovely stay at his home in Boston:  “Not only fragrant memories of things heard and seen, but fragrant memories from Ann’s domain are brought to us – The latter in practical shape.  Mrs. Church has already developed successfully the ‘Chowder’ and ‘Red Robin.’  We have most assuredly profited from our visit.”  

I found the recipe for the soft custard in the Putnam cookbook, and it’s not too hard to imagine the Church’s cook, Jane, may have referred to the book when preparing Appleton’s ‘receipt’.  The result is rich but refreshing with a very sexy texture thanks to the luxurious custard… who knew applesauce could be sexy? 

The second recipe for an Indian Curry is a contribution from the Church children’s tutor, a Mr. Scudder.  It is simple and delicious.  I chose to make it with a poussin (a very young chicken) from D’Artagnan but it would be good with a Cornish hen or a small, cut-up chicken or chicken breast (or even the mutton or veal that Scudder mentioned in his receipt).  The addition of the cardamom seemed frightfully exotic for the times!  I was a bit skeptical about the lard and coconut milk but I shouldn’t have been… it is pure evil and I mean that in the nicest way because the spicy heat is gorgeous with the rich full flavors. I must say onions with the sweet lard (pastured pigs make lovely lard) and cardamom are insanely good together… I had a hard time keeping myself away from eating them by themselves!


Red Robin

4 c milk (I used 3 ½ c milk and ½ c cream)
8 eggs
1 c sugar
1/3 c Pedro Ximeniz sherry or a sweet-ish Madeira (Boston Bual or NY Malmsy from Rare Wine Company)

Whip the eggs and sugar till frothy.  Add scalding milk to eggs, stirring constantly.  Strain and put on top of a double boiler till thickened, stirring constantly.  It will have the texture of very thick cream or, say pancake batter.  Chill or serve warm.

5 apples, cored but with peel for color and cooked down with 1/4 sugar
rind of a lemon grated
2 T cognac

24-32 very thin slices apple with peel
3 T maple syrup
1 T lemon juice

Cook down applesauce.  Run it through a food mill to get rid of the peel.   Toss apple slices in syrup and lemon juice, blended. Lay apple slices on silpat and cook for 1 hour at 200º or until translucent… longer if you want them crisp.  You may want to make more of these.. they are quite good!

Pour custard into a bowl top with applesauce and serve with slices on top

Red Robin – Mr. Appleton

“5 Apples – cut and cooked as for applesauce. Then add a large bowl of sugar and grated rind of one lemon – Then cook and make into marmalade. Put in mould and cooled. Pour over marmalade on soft custard strongly flavored with wine -”


From Mrs. Putnam’s Receipt Book



Curry - from India for 2 persons

2 T lard or duck fat
2 semi-boned poussin from D'Artagnan (they are 10-12 oz each) or 1 cornish hen or 2 chicken breasts
salt and pepper to taste
2 large onions, sliced
¼- ½ t cardamom to taste
¼ t cayenne pepper
2 T curry powder mixed with water to form a thick paste
1 cup coconut milk
juice ½ lemon

Saute the chicken until brown on both sides and remove. Sauté the onions slowly in the fat till brown and add the cayenne and cardamom. 

Add the curry mix and the coconut milk and stir for a few minutes. Put the chicken back in the pan and let simmer slowly until the chicken is done, about 10 minutes. Serve.



To make Curry:

2 tablespoons of lard.
2 large onions sliced & fried brown
2 large spoons curry powder mixed with water to a thick paste & stirred well into the onions & lard. 

Then add mutton or veal cut up into small pieces, (or a young chicken, jointed) & cook well with the other ingredients adding the milk of a grated cocoanut which may be obtained by pouring hot water over the grated cocoanut & squeezing hard until the milk is extracted.  

After the milk is put in, it must be stirred all the time for ten minutes; then leave it all in the frying (covered) pan, on the stove to simmer, but not cook.   Just before it is to be served put in the juice of half a lemon.   If cocoanuts are not to be had, use a small cup of rich cows milk, part cream if you have it, lightly sweetened with white sugar. 

This quantity is sufficient for 4 to 6 persons.   If it is required to be very hot add cayenne & black pepper.   2 or 3 cardamums alter and improve the taste of curry. 


Thanks to Gollum for hosting Foodie Friday!!!


I am off to the Oxford Food Symposium and will be posting from the UK for a few weeks!

PS.  My Friend Spencer at A Friend in New York is doing a tour of Olana and Hudson antique shops on July 23.  Here’s a link for his tour which will be great  fun!: OLANA TOUR