Thursday, October 20, 2011

Clarimonde, Voluptuous Vampires and Perfumed Port with Chocolate


Ritratto di Giovane Donna, Henry Fuseli, 1781



What better way to celebrate the lost souls of Halloween than a darkly romantic vampire story?

Clarimonde, (La Morte Amoureuse) by Theophile Gautier is a rich playing field for the romantic imagination.  Written in 1836, it is not the first exploration of the vampire legend but it is one of the most compelling for its intricate pas de deux between reality and disturbed obsession.  Navigating these ever-mutable planes quickens your pulse and feeds your imagination.

When Lucy Raubertas, at Indieperfumes asked me to join a stellar convocation of perfumers to create perfumes (and in my case a drink) inspired by a voluptuous tale of desperate passion, how could I refuse?  It’s a tale I could not help but be drawn to since I love the idea of vampires and have done since I was a child. Reading this gave me an excuse (as if I need one) to find out a little more about vampires.

I read that the word vampire comes from the Serbian word vampir and that it was not mentioned in the West until the early 18th century when Russian and Eastern European stories and superstitions began to circulate (the word first came up in a 1734 travelogue ––one wonders if the opening of Russia by Peter the Great had something to do with the spreading of the myths??). 

At a certain point in the 18th century there was a veritable plague of imaginary vampire attacks that began in East Prussia and led to graveyards being ripped apart in search of the demons, lots of garlic, strange herbs and staking.

John Polidori (1795-1821)

It is widely acknowledged that the first to tackle the Vampire archetype in western culture was John Polidori (Byron’s handsome physician). Except –– that is not completely true. His may have been the first short story on the subject but the idea had been swirling around Europe for a century or more and many a creative soul had already been attracted to the myth (there were earlier German vampire poems like The Vampire by Ossenfelder in 1748 and Lenore by Bürger in 1773).

Until Bram Stoker’s Dracula  demolished the competition in 1897, Polidori’s The Vampyre enjoyed an enduring popularity, inspiring many later works including Stokers’ and a penny-dreadful called Varney the Vampire  in the 1840’s (that I read many years ago… it was dreadful). All the Twilights and Angels and True Bloods of today have some of the genes of Polidori's work.



Polidori wrote The Vampyre during the now legendary holiday with Lord Byron, Percy Shelley and Mary Wollstonecraft Godwin (soon to be Mary Shelley) at the Villa Diodati in Switzerland in June, 1816.

Chichester Canal JMW Turner

1816 was no ordinary year.  It was called “the year without a summer” because of massive volcanic eruptions from Mt. Tambora in Indonesia in 1815.  To a frightened, superstitious world, this would have seemed apocalyptic, with psychedelic skies (that Turner captured so brilliantly), a sulphuric fog (properly called a stratospheric sulfate aerosol veil) and catastrophic crop failures.  No wonder it sent a group of poets over to the darkside that fateful June.


After reading aloud from a new translation (from the German) of one of the current hits of the day called Tales of the Dead, Byron encouraged the company to write their own dark tales…. The most famous of which is of course, Frankenstein.  Polidori based his vampire tale on a fragment of a story by Byron with the vampire named Augustus Darvell. Although Byron had mentioned the phenomenon before, it had not been fully explored.

Byron became interested in the vampire myth after hearing of it on his grand tour in 1809-10 and Lord Byron himself touched on the subject in a note following his poem The Giaour: A Fragment of a Turkish Tale in 1812:

“The Vampire superstition is still general in the Levant. Honest Tournefort tells a long story about these 'Vroucolachas', as he calls them. The Romaic term is 'Vardoulacha'. I recollect a whole family being terrified by the scream of a child, which they imagined must proceed from such a visitation. The Greeks never mention the word without horror. I find that 'Broucolokas' is an old legitimate Hellenic appellation –– at least is so applied to Arsenius, who, according to the Greeks, was after his death animated by the Devil. The moderns, however, use the word I mention. The stories told in Hungary and Greece of these foul feeders are singular, and some of them most incredibly attested.”

Lord Byron

Polidori’s vampire is a man named Lord Ruthven (a name first used by Byron’s ex, Lady Caroline Lamb, for a thinly disguised Byron character in her 1816 Gothic novel Glenarvon).  As Frankenstein was inspired by Mary Wollstoncraft’s vision of her Shelley, so the character of Lord Ruthven was 
again inspired by Byron in Polidori’s tale.

Fact and fiction sometimes share the same bed, do they not??



But what of Clarimonde?  The vampire Clarimonde was born of the mind and heart of Theophile Gautier –– a poet, painter and novelist.  He spoke of the “sovereignty of the beautiful” in his work and perfected a poetic technique for recording his impressions of works of art, seamlessly joining two of his passions.  He loved weaving realism and fantasy together in his stories and believed in the existence of the unexplainable and mysterious.  This belief system is fully displayed in Clarimonde where the visual and sensual are worked masterfully.

In his story, Aria Marcella he declared, “No one is truly dead until they are no longer loved.”  A perfect sentiment for the immortal vampire (or for their lovers)! Can that not be said for the immortal characters of literature that are re-animated in every new reader’s imagination?


 Gautier’s use of the female vampire as his heroine was inspired by Goethe’s 1797 female vampire story, The Bride of Corinth.  The poem predates both Byron and Polidori (it is not known if they had read Goethe’s poem).

I think the fascination with demon women is in our genes since tales of demonic women date back to the dawn of history.  They were often serpent hybrids, out to suck or squeeze the life out of their mostly male conquests (although children were also mentioned as favorite victims of the creatures).  They were always beautiful and desirable –– with a terrifying aspect (the serpent side of them was often not immediately perceptible –– only hinted at –– like something you see out of the corner of your eye but can’t quite believe). 

Goethe’s veiled bride was no serpent… she was a dead thing that killed her bridegroom by feeding upon him too deeply.  It was said of Goethe’s poem “An awful and undeniable horror breathes throughout it.  In the slow measured rhythm of the verse, and the pathetic simplicity of the diction, there is a solemnity and a stirring spell which chains the feelings like a deep mysterious strain of music.”  No wonder it inspired Gautier!

Topsell History of 4-Footed Beasts, 1607

Although 17th c Edward Topsell paints a nightmarish, “Island of Dr Moreau” portrait of the Lamia or Lilith (ancient vampire cousins), other later interpretations are ravishing beauties.

Lamia, Herbert James Draper 1909

Lilith, John Collier, 1892

I think Gautier was a little in love with his own creation, channeling Keats and Coleridge’s demon women with his words.  What makes his story different is that his vampire is a loving creature, not a monster.  There are no horrors to be found in her declaration to Romuald:

“I loved thee long ere I saw thee, dear Romuald, and sought thee everywhere.  Thou wast my dream…”

You can feel that spirit as lover/priest Romuald draws a portrait of Clarimonde:

“She was rather tall, with a form and bearing of a goddess.  Her hair, of a soft blond hue, was parted over her temples in 2 rivers of rippling gold; she seemed a diademed queen.  Her forehead, bluish-white in its transparency, extended its calm breadth above the arches of her eyebrows, which by a strange singularity were almost black and admirably relieved the effect of see-green eyes of unsustainable vivacity and brilliancy. What eyes!  With a single flash they could have decided a man’s destiny.
… she elevated her head with the undulating grace of a startled serpent or peacock”

Listen to Keats in his poem  Lamia (1819) as he describes his succubus:

 She was a gordian shape of dazzling hue,
Vermilion-spotted, golden, green, and blue;
Striped like a zebra, freckled like a pard,
Eyed like a peacock, and all crimson barr’d;
And full of silver moons, that, as she breathed,
Dissolv’d, or brighter shone, or interwreathed
Their lustres with the gloomier tapestries—
So rainbow-sided, touch’d with miseries,
She seem’d, at once, some penanced lady elf,
Some demon’s mistress, or the demon’s self.
Upon her crest she wore a wannish fire
Sprinkled with stars, like Ariadne’s tiar:
Her head was serpent, but ah, bitter-sweet!


… or Coleridge in Cristabel (1797)  writing of his succubus, Geraldine:

There she sees a damsel bright,
Dressed in a silken robe of white,
That shadowy in the moonlight shone :
The neck that made that white robe wan,
Her stately neck, and arms were bare;
Her blue-veined feet unsandal'd were;
And wildly glittered here and there
The gems entangled in her hair.
I guess, 'twas frightful there to see
A lady so richly clad as she--
Beautiful exceedingly!

As a woman, I have always found it interesting that a man’s excuse for being utterly obsessed by a woman is that she is a demon possessing him, not that his obsession comes from his own mind!  Perish the thought!

The Shepherd’s Dream Henry Fusili, 1793

In our hero’s case, Romuald is a young priest whose piety is forever poisoned by his vampire Clarimonde.

“Yes I have loved as none in the world ever loved–– with an insensate and furious passion-so violent that I am astonished it did not cause my heart to burst asunder.  Ah what nights ­– what nights!”

It would be hard to go back to a lonely life of chastity and poverty in the priesthood after such a pronouncement.

Clarimonde is beautiful and desirable beyond imagining and young Romuald is lost from the moment she gazes upon him –– but did she?

Vampire, Edvard Munch,  1893-4

 The great thing about the tale is that we are never sure whether this ever happened or if it is all in his imagination.  Is she in fact a succubus that he has invented –– or a real incarnation of temptation? 

Could it be his blood/imagination is the animator of this vampire who only exists in his mind as his eternal torturer?

“The error or a single moment is enough to make one lose eternity. Lose eternity 
the end”

For poor Romuald, this apparition has remained with him as real as memory can be. For the readers of the tale... it is for us to choose what to believe... or not.

Countess de Castiglione photo by Pierre-Louise Pierson, 1860's

Now that we have learned a little about vampires in literature, what dark obsessions can be called up with a scent?

How can you not be inspired to attach perfume and scent to the story as a way of fixing it in our Clarimonde group’s shared experience. Our memory of scent is perhaps our strongest fixative, isn’t it?

Who does not remember a lover with a fragrance… a perfume, a smell of wood fires that brings us back like a wormhole to moments in our history.


When I write about history, the question that always comes to my mind is, how did they eat?  If I can’t find specifics, I imagine what it would be and create it to make the history come alive for me.

I imagine doing the same thing with perfumes.  As artists in this field often do… an inspiration creates a scent or a person requests a special elixir and the perfumer tries to make something that is their perception of the person –– their scented incarnation or manifestation.

In this case it is a fiction, a mood, a melody.  The mention of perfume in Clarimonde is brief yet potent:

“In lieu of the fetid and cadaverous odours which I had been accustomed to breathe during such funereal vigils, a languorous vapour of Oriental perfume––I know not what amorous odour of woman––softly floated through the tepid air….

The air of the alcove intoxicated me, that febrile perfume of half-faded roses penetrated my very brain, and I commenced to pace restlessly up and down the chamber, pausing at each turn before the bier to contemplate the graceful corpse lying beneath the transparency of its shroud.”

For this, I decided food would not be appropriate, since she “… swallowed the blood in little mouthfuls, slowly and carefully like a connoisseur”.  I wanted something darkly perfumed, warm like blood with an air of the ancient. I chose an old port as my base because it has always reminded me of old leather.  Next rose–– to honor the half-faded roses Gautier describes.  For Orient perfumes I used musk, ambergris, oud wood.  I finished the brew with nutmeg and chocolate for their affinity to the port. 

The result?  It is dark and mysterious.  The fragrance lingers in your mouth long after the glass has been emptied.  Like a great vampire story –– or the memory of a great love.



 Liqueur de Clarimonde

1 cup of vintage port
2 t honey (depending on your taste, the port and the chocolate you may want more
2 drops Aftelier Rose essence or 2 t rosewater
pinch of nutmeg
2 T chocolate, chopped fine



1 pea size piece of ambergris from Ambergris Co. NZ, grated (optional)
1 piece of oud (2 “x ½”) crushed (optional)
4 grains of Siberian Musk in alcohol (optional)


* I got my oud and musk from Siti House of Perfumes

Warm the port and honey and add the rest of the ingredients.  Stir till chocolate is dissolved.  Allow it to sit for a few hours or until the following day.

For a simpler version, leave out the ambergris, oud and musk.  This drink was inspired by a port-flavored chocolate truffle that I had long ago in Paris and loved. I added the rare and exotic hippocras flavors to make the drink feel like Clarimonde… but know the ingredients are not easy to find.  You will love the simpler version too!

Re-heat, strain and serve.

Very Old Transylvanian decanter


PS~  As some of you know, I have been on a sabbatical from my day job in the film business as a production designer.  I am doing a little project for a great director that he has written.  Not much money, great cast and a big dinner scene.  I was wondering if any NYC area bloggers would like to  contribute a beautiful dish to the effort for screen credit?   Email me if this interests any of you.  This would happen somewhere between the 8th and the 19th of November.  Details to follow.



Thursday, October 13, 2011

Kedleston, American Heiresses and Lady Curzon Soup

Mary Leiter, Lady Curzon 1870 – 1906

Lady Mary Curzon, wife of George, Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India wasn't born at the magnificent Kedleston House.  She wasn't even English.  She was born Mary Leiter in Chicago in 1870.  She was 6’ tall, very beautiful, very cultivated, very intelligent and a very wealthy young woman.  She rose effortlessly above her parvenu status (where so many less accomplished heiress-arrivistes had failed) and was warmly welcomed into high society.  Grover Cleveland’s wife, Frances Folsom, was one of her best friends.  From all accounts, she was the real deal… a quality that money can’t buy.

Her father, Levi Zeigler Leiter (1834-1904) was one of the founders of the Marshall Fields retail empire who went on to become a titan in the world of Chicago real estate. 

He brought his family from Chicago to Washington DC in 1881 to broaden their cultural horizons as he spent more time away from business, enjoying travel and philanthropy, helming The Chicago Historical Society and Chicago Art Institute boards. His children received tutoring in the fine arts and had a Columbia professor to teach history and science at their Washington D.C. home.  This surely influenced Mary’s life, making her more sophisticated and worldly than she may have been had she remained in Chicago.

Well-known Philadelphia architect Theophilus Chandler built Leiter’s mansion on DuPont Circle.  It was considered one of the finest houses in Washington DC when it was built with 3 stories and 55 rooms.  His wife, the former Mary Theresa Carver, was one of the leading hostesses of the capitol and Mary debuted there in 1888. Sadly, the house was torn down in 1947 –– the Dupont Plaza Hotel stands in its place.


Leiter House
Leiter House
Leiter House

In 1894, after much success in cosmopolitan society, she went to London where the American Ambassador introduced her to George Nathaniel Curzon, heir to the Barony of Scarsdale.

It was love at first sight.
 

George Nathaniel Curzon was a brilliant, driven man (he felt his character was formed by a diabolical, sadistic governess).  It was said you either loved him or hated him.  Because of a riding accident, he had to wear a back brace most of his life that made him appear stiff and haughty.  A rather unpleasant rhyme about him was created at Balliol and stayed with him most of his life:
My name is George Nathaniel Curzon,

I am a most superior person.

My cheeks are pink, my hair is sleek,

I dine at Blenheim twice a week.
He worked hard at Oxford, traveled extensively (even though his father felt it was a waste of time to travel to foreign countries and that people of their class should stay put).  As a result of his travels and languages, he was a force for good in foreign affairs and advanced quickly as he implemented forward-thinking policies.

Mary Leiter was more attracted to his talent and drive than his title (his ancient family tracked back to the Norman conquest but was not fabulously wealthy at this point) and they were married in 1895 in Washington, D.C. a year after meeting.  They had 3 daughters and were said to be incredibly devoted to one another.  George was devastated when she died in 1906, only 36 years old from complications from a miscarriage.  Later in life he said he had no fear of death for he would be able to join his beloved Mary (a fact that must have ticked off his 2nd wife).
Lady Mary in the Durbar Dress, 1903






Renowned architect, Sir Robert Adam (1728-92) built Kedleston House (at enormous expense) in 1765 for Sir Nathaniel Curzon, the first Lord Scarsdale (he tore down the ancient family house and a village to make it).   It was never meant as a family house and was rather meant to be a house to entertain in, a “temple of the arts”, hence the gorgeous giant rooms. As a result, the family apartments aren’t especially grand (Curzon ran out of money so a planned enlargement never happened).  As is often the case, lack of funds kept the gorgeous Adam house intact and undamaged by unworthy renovations.
The oval music room, The Saloon, has the most remarkable acoustics thanks to the round ceiling and the great hall has been used for filming on many occasions, most recently filming on the Duchess with Keira Knightly.  It is a very grand house for its size.
The Saloon


The Marble Hall




 

The Drawing Room with the startling blue silk wall covering and fabulous carpet


State Bedchamber

The Curzon’s lives underwent a seismic shift when Lord Curzon was appointed Viceroy of India.   In a 1904 NYT article, Lady Curzon was called “the American Queen of India”. It was thought that the position of Viceroy was second only to King Edward himself. 

Curzon felt it was important for appearances that the Viceroy lead an opulent life full of great splendor as was the custom in India at that time and Curzon did not disappoint –– he lived nearly as lavishly as the ruling 200-odd Maharajahs in the country who ran its princely states  (yes, there were complaints about his extravagance back home in England).


Mary Curzon in the Peacock Dress Portrait in the entrance of Kedleston

This desire to impress led to the creation of the incredible Peacock Dress that was made for Lady Curzon of precious jewels and golden thread by the House of Worth, Paris. Word was, when she appeared in the dress at the Delhi Durbar to celebrate the coronation of Edward VII, the crowd was breathless… the dress was designed to sparkle in the newly deployed electric lights at the party. Even today it is remarkable to behold in a glass case at the house.



 She was said to be one of the best-dressed women in the world and was a great supporter of the Indian fabric industry and its craft’s men and women.  She encouraged the renaissance of ancient embroidering traditions that were on the wane when she arrived in the country.  The fabric for Queen Alexandra’s coronation gown was made and embroidered by the same factory that had done the Peacock Dress at the urgings of Lady Curzon. 

But there was more –– she learned Urdu and a women’s hospital in Bangalore still bears her name ––– she was one of the first people to urge conservation of the dwindling rhinoceros population.  She was a remarkable woman.

Back in England, Mary campaigned for her husband, standing radiantly by his side during speeches and was immediately popular.

She was a magnetic hostess wherever she lived and it is for this we remember her creation that came to be named Lady Curzon Soup in her honor.

Dining Room


Wine Cooler the size of a bath for the dining room… for a lot of wine!!

Lady Curzon Soup was the result of a happy accident.  The story goes that in 1905 Lady Curzon was entertaining an important guest who did not drink.  All the rest of her guests for the evening enjoyed their alcohol.  With remarkable diplomatic skill, she reached a happy compromise and had the chef liberally douse creamed turtle soup with sherry.  The story and the bones of the recipe came from Soup Song.
The result is superb and quite easy to make. When I had it in my youth I thought it was the height of fine old-world dining elegance and terribly sophisticated.  Since I haven't had turtle soup for 1000 years  (I am very much against eating turtle… had a pet named Myrtle), I tried to come up with an alternative that had a hint of amphibian about it.
Today, it has become common to make Lady Curzon Soup with mussels and I think that is a delicious way to go.  It is also possible to buy cans of turtle soup should you want to do it that way. I went another way.  Since I am familiar with the taste of frog and even alligator, I decided that a mix of chicken and fish would approximate the flavor.  SO I used chicken stock with a splash of fish stock and blowfish tails (that the fishmonger at the Lobster Place, NYC recommended) as the garnish with great success.  I can say frog’s leg meat would work well or simply use sole or monkfish –– even crab or lobster would be delicious. Honestly, I seem to recall the turtle in the soup had the texture of clams… but I could be wrong… it was a very long time ago. Anyway you make it, it is rich and delicious and elegant.  It does honors to a remarkable woman.

Lady Curzon Soup serves 4-6
 2 egg yolks
1/3 c heavy cream
1 t (or more or less to taste) curry powder
4 c chicken stock (you could substitute 1 cup of chicken with 1 cup of fish stock)
1/3 pound blowfish tails  (or meat from 2 frog’s legs, or 1/3 pound sole or monkfish, or 16 mussels) gently sautéed in a t of butter and kept warm
1/4 cup sherry

Garnish: 6 Tablespoons whipped heavy cream, sprinkling of curry powder
In a bowl, whip together the egg yolks, cream, and curry powder. In a large saucepan, heat the soup, then gradually beat a cup of it into the egg yolk mixture, making a liaison. Remove the soup from the heat and finish the liaison by stirring in the egg mixture. Add the sherry, then reheat at a very low temperature until light and creamy ––do not boil.
To serve, pour into bowls or cups, add the fish and top with thewhipped cream on each one. Run the bowls under a hot broiler for just a few seconds if you have oven-proof bowls or cups or hit it with a blowtorch if you would like to glaze the cream, then serve immediately.




Thursday, October 6, 2011

Apicius’ Sala Cattabia Apiciana –– Chicken and Cucumber Bread Salad with Celery Seed Dressing



 I admit it. I am a pit bull about some things. Once I get an idea in my head, it’s hard to let go (just ask Dr Lostpast).

A few weeks ago, I read that a dish from Apicius’ De re Coquinaria was like pizza.  When I checked the original (I know, what a geek –– yes, I have a copy), I found the recipe had nothing to do with a pizza… it was a salad.  Once found, I loved the idea of it, made it, and loved the tastes and textures in the finished dish. Those Romans knew how to eat.

So, who was Apicius? The name probably came from 1st century Roman gourmet, Marcus Gavius Apicius.  This is a little vague because there seems to have been a famous earlier gourmet named Apicius in 90 BC and the name became more of a symbol than a real person. The word Apicius came to mean gourmet at its best and glutton at its worst. Although I read through a lot of material, it wasn’t until I found a great article by historian and chef Sally Grainger in Gastronomica that I felt a strong storyline develop. It was she who said,  “Juvenal thinks of all gourmets as Apicius…. In the A.D.120s another man with that name is credited with sending oysters to Trajan.  Clearly, he has this name because he likes food, it is used as a cognomen, a nickname that someone acquires after displaying a particular attribute.”


Apicius’ food advice was mentioned in Pliny, Seneca and Tacitus and there was even a work (now lost) called On the Luxury of Apicius by a Greek named Apion. There was a kind of cheesecake named for him and he supposedly had a school for cooks. Word was his meals were so remarkable that the Imperial government gave him money to entertain foreign dignitaries for them.

Grainger noted Seneca deplored such a lifestyle: “May the Gods and Goddesses ruin those whose greed crosses even the boundaries of our invidious empire.  They wish produce to be caught beyond the Phasis [ends of the earth] to equip their pretentious cook-shops!”  Further, Seneca was horrified that Apicius celebration of cooking was more respected than philosophy, “Apicius, whom we remember well, he who proclaimed the science of the cook shop and afflicted a generation with his doctrine in the city from which philosophers were ordered to leave as though the corrupters of youth.”

Fresco from Pompei

Legend has it that Apicius traveled to Africa when he heard they had the finest giant shrimp known to man… shrimp of the gods.  When he arrived, the fisherman brought him their finest specimens but none came up to Apicius’ standards and he turned around to go back home, never setting food in Africa after months of travel because he was bitterly disappointed that he had not found the ne plus ultra of shrimp. They were still out there somewhere.

A favorite of mine, scraps on the floor, Triclinium [dining room] mosaic, Pompei

There is another legend that he committed suicide when he thought his millions could run out and he might starve (or at least not be able to indulge his appetites)… of course there was one last banquet before he made his final exit (that must have been some party).

Some writers claimed he had spent 100 million sestertii on his dining.  Who can separate fact from fiction at this point?


9th century copy of de re Coquinaria in NYC

All this leads up to a revelation. The book that has been attributed to Apicius for over a millennium –– was not written by him –– it probably wasn’t even written by one person. The 2 oldest Fulda 10 chapter versions (2 copies made at the Fulda Monastery in Germany that now rest in the Vatican and New York City) show that it was written in many different styles of Latin–– perhaps written or dictated by slave-cooks, certainly not written by a great nobleman (the Romans, unlike the Greeks and their mageiroi [master chefs], placed no honor on the cooking profession). Grainger said: “The words reek of soot, grease, and kitchen smells, and the recipes are clearly meant to be cooked, not read”.  Grainger believes this was written by generations of cooks and passed on as the recipes reflect styles of different eras.  


At some point a scribe took all the bits and pieces and made it into a whole, tidied-up work. I have now seen a few English cookery books that have been written and passed on over hundreds of years so this seems very plausible.

There seems to have been at least a few versions of Apician manuscripts.  The 8th century Excerpta Apicii by Vindarius has only 30 recipes –– none of which are in the Fulda versions, leading to the belief that there was once a much larger collection than the 10 chapters in the Fulda manuscripts or that there were other Apician recipe collections.


Front page of Vatican copy of Apicius, 9th century

It is believed that because the manuscripts were headed API CAE that they became Apici Caeli [Caelius Apicius]–– and that they were first collected in the 4th or 5th century AD (this is thought because they were mentioned in other materials… no originals date from that period). The title, De re Coquinaria, is a Renaissance addition. That’s not to say that the dishes hadn’t crossed Imperial Roman tables at one time or another or even had a place at an Apician banquet… there are tantalizing hints in Roman writing of the 1st century that Apicius did have a recipe book.  The 5th century scribes may have faithfully copied 400 year old writings that are now lost.  


There was something of a blackout on food writing after the end of the Roman Empire –– a fact I discovered looking for recipes from the Dark Ages (a very cool book by Anthimus in the 6th century is pretty much the next thing and the recipes are definitely related to those in Apicius).

Mosaic from a villa at Tor Marancia, 2nd c.CE

We may never know the truth about the collection. Attaching a famous name to an anonymous manuscript would certainly lend it credibility and enhance its chances for immortality.

This recipe, ancient Roman or not, is delicious.  The aspic addition is excellent and refreshing and the dressing is superb.  I used Apicius, Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome as my source and also found Sally Grainger’s The Classical Cookbook  terribly interesting and well-researched. 

For a little fun, also from Grainger’s book, a recipe for sweet spiced wine, Conditum Paradoxum to begin your Roman meal.



The Recipe:

Aliter sala cattabia Apiciana: adicies in mortario apii semen, puleium aridum, mentam aridam, gingiber, coriandrum viridem, uvam passam enucleatam, mel, acetum, oleum et vinum. conteres. adicies in caccabulo panis Picentini frustra, interpones pulpas pulli, glandulas haedinas, caseum Vestinum, nucleos pineos, cucumeres, cepas aridas minute concisas. ius supra perfundes. insuper nivem sub hora asparges et inferes.



A very loose translation:

Put in the mortar celery seed, dry pennyroyal, dry mint, ginger, fresh coriander, seedless raisins, honey, vinegar, oil and wine and bruise them.  Place 3 pieces of Picentian bread [a spelt bread] in a mold, interlined with pieces of cooked Chicken, Sweetbreads, Cheese, Pignoli nuts, cucumbers [pickled] finely chopped dry onions [shallots] covering the whole with jellied broth.  Bury the mold in snow up to the rim, unmold and sprinkle with dressing.


Sala Cattabia Apiciana for 2

For the Dressing:

1 tsp celery seeds
1 T of fresh pennyroyal or 1 t dry *
1 T fresh mint or 1 t dry
1 t grated fresh ginger
1/4 tsp coriander seed
2 T raisins
2 tsp honey
2 tbsp vinegar
3-4 T olive oil
1 T white wine

For the Salad:

2 slices whole grain crustless bread cut into pieces to fit the 1 c ramekin
1 cooked chicken breast, shredded
small piece fried sweetbreads (lamb or veal), sliced (optional)
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, planed in paper thin slices
2 T pine nuts, chopped
1/2 medium cucumber, finely sliced
1 shallot or small onion, finely sliced

2 cup strong chicken stock, clarified
2 t gelatin

Herbs, greens, celery tops (only the tops were used) for accompaniments.

2 -1 c ramekins, oiled

Begin with the dressing. Pound together the celery seeds, pennyroyal, mint, ginger and coriander seeds in a mortar. Combine with the raisins then moisten with the honey, vinegar and white wine. Whisk in the olive oil and set aside, OR, throw everything in a blender and give it a whir.

Take ¼ c of the stock and add the gelatin,  Stir to dissolve.  Heat the rest of the stock and add the gelatin stock.  Whisk to blend then cool somewhat.

Place the bread in the mold, then the parmesan, pinenuts, chicken and sweetbreads then cucumbers and onions.  Pour the stock over all.  If the stock is not beginning to pool at the top after ¾ has been put in, chill and then add the rest after ½ an hour. Refrigerate for an hour or so… the idea is to have the gorgeous look of old glass on the top…

Or, what I did…

Put ¼ cup of stock in the bottom of a ramekin and freeze until jellied. Place a layer of onions on the stock, then cucumbers, chicken, sweetbreads, pinenuts and parmesan.  Pour ½ cup of stock over each mold.  Place the bread on top and pour the rest of the stock over it.  Refrigerate for an hour or so.

Un-mold and serve with the dressing and accompaniments.

* if you don’t have pennyroyal, use all mint… but pennyroyal grows like a weed and is delicious!!





4th century Roman Cage Cup, Cologne

Conditum Paradoxum

Conditum paradoxum: conditi paradoxi compositio: mellis pondo XV in aeneum vas mittuntur, praemissi[s] vini sextariis duobus, ut in cocturam mellis vinum decoquas. Quod igni lento et aridis lignis calefactum, commotum ferula dum coquitur, si effervere coeperit, vini rore compescitur, praeter quod subtracto igni in se redit. Cum perfrixerit, rursus accenditur. Hoc secundo ac tertio fiet, ac tum demum remotum a foco postridie despumatur. Tum [mittis] piperis uncias IV iam triti, masticis scripulos II, folii et croci dragmas singulas, dactylorum ossibus torridis quinque, isdemque dactylis vino mollitis, intercedente prius suffusione vini de suo modo ac numero, ut tritura lenis habeatur. His omnibus paratis supermittis vini lenis sextarios XVIII. Carbones perfecto aderunt duo milia.

The loose translation
The composition of this excellent spiced wine is as follows. Into a bronze bowl put 6 sextarii1 of honey and 2 sextarii of wine; heat on a slow fire, constantly stirring the mixture with a whip. At the boiling point add a dash of cold wine, retire from stove and skim. Repeat this twice or three times, let it rest till the next day, and skim again. Then add 4 ounces of crushed pepper,2 3 scruples of mastich, a drachm each of nard or laurel leaves and saffron, 5 drachms of roasted date stones crushed and previously soaked in wine to soften them. When this is properly done add 18 sextarii of light wine. To clarify it perfectly, add crushed charcoal3 twice or as often as necessary which will draw the Residue together and carefully strain or filter through the charcoal.


Conditum Paradoxum

1 c medium dry white wine
2 T honey
½ t ground pepper
1/2 bay leaf or pinch of spikenard
good pinch saffron
pinch mastic, ground

1 fresh date (I used a dried date), stone roasted for 10 minutes, crushed and soaked with flesh in  1/2 c white wine.

Put 1/2 c of wine in a saucepan with honey and bring to a boil.  Skim if necessary.  Repeat and remove from the heat.

Add seasonings to wine when hot.  When cold, add the rest of the wine and allow to stand over night.  To serve, strain through a fine sieve.

Thanks to Gollum for hosting Foodie Friday!