Dream Dinners, Pheasant Souvaroff and Pastry St. Honore

 A few weeks ago I wrote about rediscovering the old Time/Life series, Foods of the World (HERE).  Reading it sent memories flooding back about so many things… not the least of which were my own fond memories about Craig Claiborne, the author of Classic French Food in the series.  Ah, Craig –– you got me addicted to the NYTs food section at such an impressionable age!

In Classic French Food, there was a whole chapter in the book devoted to Claiborne’s dream about a perfect meal ­­–– if you could have anything you wanted, what would you order?  How many times have you asked yourself this question?  This chapter, entitled “A Favorite Gastronomic Game” was a preview of Craig’s best dinner ever –– sort of a rehearsal. You see, Claiborne got to actually have his dream dinner and shared it with his cooking partner at the New York Times, Pierre Franey (Claiborne wrote, and Franey did the hands-on cooking).

Like a great professor, Claiborne made you want to learn more. It was a natural progression to move from knowing more about food to being inspired to cook it for myself. Although I got off to a rocky start trying to make 500-year old dishes (this fascination isn’t new for me, I’ve been playing with old recipes from the first time I started cooking thanks to some books from the Metropolitan Museum), I soon leveled off and started making modern food more often than not.

I remembered learning about an outrageous dinner Claiborne had eaten a few years before I showed up on the scene … a $4000 dinner. By the time I heard about it, I was well on my way to becoming a food person. This meal inspired many an aspiring gourmet to dream of their own list of dishes (a "fork-list" if you will) and where to eat them.  My friends and I (many of whom were in the restaurant business) would toss the idea back and forth over many glasses of wine, deciding what our favorites would be (and who our dream date would be, of course… we were in our 20’s after all).

For his perfect dinner, Claiborne went to a small, exclusive place in Paris called Chez Denis that favored patrons like Jackie Kennedy and Orson Welles –– thing is, he won the once-in-a-lifetime meal.  His $300 bid at a PBS auction got him the prize, courtesy of American Express –– dinner for 2, whatever you wanted, anywhere in the world. The only hitch was that they had to take the American Express Card.  Claiborne made the bid and then forgot about it, so he was flabbergasted when he was announced the winner.  Although I am sure no one at AMEX anticipated such an expense  (1975’s $4000 would be more than $18,000 today), the press the dinner got paid for the prize 10 times over.

The 31 course, 4 ½ hour meal in 3 services began its first service with Beluga caviar in a Baccarat crystal dish.  Next came 3 soups: wild duck consommé with crepes, cold Germiny [sorrel] and veloute andalou [cream of tomato soup]. Then there was a parfait of sweetbreads, mousse of quail and a tiny truffled ham tart. Still in the first service were oysters with beurre blanc, lobster in a tomato cream sauce and red mullet in a Provinçale pie but there were also bits of Bresse chicken with a mushroom cream sauce,  a Chartreuse of partridge and Limosin beef with a truffle sauce.  They had a small break with sherbets (orange lemon and black currant) to "revive the palate" before the 2nd service.


Ortolan


The 2nd service began with the most rare of gourmet dishes, ortolans en brochette (now totally illegal), wild duck en salmis, loin of veal wrapped in pastry with whole, giant truffles, puree of artichoke hearts and pommes de terres Anna. Then some cold delicacies, wild duck,  foie gras, cold woodcock filets cooked in Chambertin and wild pheasant with fresh hazelnuts.

They finished the heroic feast with the third service that began with a cold glazed charlotte with strawberries, an Ile flottante (meringue on creme anglaise) and poires alma (pears poached in port) that was then followed by pastries, confections and fruits.

This was washed down with amazing wines.  When Denis agreed to do the dinner he wrote to Claiborne: "In accordance with your demand, I propose to organize for you a prestigious dinner. In the land of my birth, the region of Bordeaux, one speaks of a repas de vins, a meal during the course of which a number of wines of great prestige are served, generally 9 wines".  They were : Champagne Comtesse Marie de France 1966, Château Latour 1918 (Claiborne said it was the best Bordeaux he had ever known), Montrachet du Baron Cher 1969, Château Mouton Rothschild 1928, Château Lafite Rothschild 1947



Château Petrus 1961 (this wine is rated 100 and goes for upwards of $10,000 a bottle today), Romanée-Conti 1929, Chateâu D'Yquem 1928, and an 1835 Madeira. In addition, Denis offered an 1865 Calvados and a personal cognac classified as "ageless."

Claiborne wrote of the meal " We reminded ourselves of one thing during the course of that evening: If you were Henry VIII, Lucullus, Gargantua and Bacchus, all rolled into one, you cannot possibly sustain, start to finish, a state of ecstasy while dining on a series of 32 dishes."

Lists like this take a lifetime of gourmet experiences to form and develop. Claiborne joyfully embraced the spirit of the game when he wrote the “A Favorite Gastronomic Game” chapter in 1968.  The result was grand practice for the 1975 dinner of a lifetime.

The rules were loose.  “You are not bound by any limitations of time or place.  You may simply make your selections and assume that everything you order will magically appear of the table.  You may even cheat a bit; if you find it hard to fix on any one choice for a particular course, you are allowed an alternate, or even several if you prefer.  This is a once-in-a-lifetime feast. The object of the game is to pick anything and everything on the roster of supreme classic dishes that you would like to eat.”

Some of the dishes that he was to have at the Paris dinner were already on his list years before and that did not surprise me in the least. 

Linden Flower

One of the best things about doing this blog has been that I have been able to slowly but surely try things I’ve always wanted to try –– everything from grouse to Proust’s lime flower tea and Madeleines (when I was a kid I thought regular tea with a squeeze of lime would do the trick, not knowing the lime flowers were Linden flowers and the flavor delicate­­ and terribly beautiful).  Many things I had read about (pheasant under glass) or heard about (ambergris) or seen on screen (the cailles en sarcophage from Babette’s Feast) and wanted to try had gone out of fashion by the time I wanted to eat them.

In an odd way, I guess I’d been slowly assembling my list for decades.  Instead of a bucket list, it’s a "fork list"(buckets are for horse-chow after all).   It’s a list that is constantly evolving as my horizons widen.  I know sometimes these dishes I try leave my readers scratching their heads, but the other great thing about a blog is that it is so liberating  –– I do what I want, for better or for worse, and have a great time doing it. My hope is that you who visit Lostpast will find the stories interesting and will find that the recipes inspire you to try things outside your comfort zones ––  inspired, as I have been, by many cultures. and great cooks throughout the centuries.  I know my "fork list" has certainly changed since I started working on the blog... have you ever compiled your list?  Has it changed much over the years?

 

Guy Thivard and Mrs. Point with foie gras en brioche (Time/Life photo)

Claiborne’s 1968 list began with fresh foie gras, glazed in port with truffles and aspic in brioche by Chef Guy Thivard of Le Pyramide (the restaurant created by the legendary 6’4”, 300 pound chef Ferdinand Point).  Claiborne said trying to describe foie gras en brioche was like “trying to capture a dazzling ray of light”.  This would be served with a Sauternes, freezing cold.

Next came a Galantine of Duck filled with meats, truffles and pistachios.

He said the rest was harder to choose but it would begin with the creamed Germiny (sorrel) soup.  Alternatives were a variety of consommés (if the food to follow was rich); either Celestine (with shredded crepes), Royale (with bits of custard) or Petite Marmite (with tiny diced vegetables).  These all showed up in the 1975 dinner in slightly different forms.

Coulibiac (Time/Life photo –haven’t pictures changed? 
They wouldn’t make a food porn site today!)

For fish he raved over Coulibiac (a French/Russian classic of salmon enclosed in pastry served with melted butter) that his cooking partner Pierre Franey had done with great success at Pavillon restaurant in NYC.  He also could have chosen a lobster soufflé (a cloud of soufflé over a ‘piquant’ Lobster Americaine base ––a tomato/cognac preparation).

Next he mentioned Poulet Sauté Boivin (chicken with meat glaze, artichoke bottoms and new potatoes) or Fillet of Beef Richelieu (with braised lettuce, chateau potatoes, tomatoes and mushroom caps filled with duxelle).

Pheasant Souvaroff (Time/Life photo)

BUT, he would forgo them all if it were game season and he could have Faison Souvaroff (pheasant, madeira, foie gras and truffles sealed in a casserole that’s opened at table to enthrall the lucky diners with the scent of the creation).  Well, that stopped me in my tracks… that would be my dish. How can you go wrong with a sauce enriched by foie gras and truffles?? 

There was more to follow –– quail with grapes in pastry sounded lovely as did the desserts –– sorbets, ice cream bombes, crepes, Bavarian creams, savarins, and beignets.  Riz Imperatrice (creamy rice custard with a tower of glacéed fruits named for Empress Eugenie) a Bavarois Clermont (with Bavarian cream and chocolate chestnuts), Gateau St. Honoré (choux pastry dipped in caramel and filled with pastry cream on top of puff pastry with crème Chantilly named after the patron saint of bakers) and Poires Bourdaloue (pear tart with frangipane cream and chopped pistachios and macaroons on top were described with great affection.

Gateau St. Honore (Time/Life photo)

All of them sounded amazing but I made a version of Gateau St Honoré… leaving off the puff pastry since it was so rich already and making individual round éclairs because I used to love them when I was in my early years in NYC –– served at Patisserie Lanciani in the Village (I just read Madeline Lanciani now has Duane Park Patisserie in Tribeca).  The crunch of the caramel and the luxurious cream filling was a huge favorite of mine.  This was also the perfect dish since I was the lucky recipient of amazing eggs and cream from an Amish farm… the quality was insane…. The pastry cream was bright yellow and the cream was so thick it whipped in 2 seconds.  The recipe is a little Craig and a little Martha (with my trusty David Leibovitz recipe for  choux paste... easy and perfect every time)

Needless to say, my guests were terribly pleased with Craig’s suggestions and I got to cross another 2 classics off my to-do list.

Pheasant Souvaroff  (serves 2 to 4)

2 small pheasants or 1-3 ½ lb. chicken (D’Artagnan sells pheasants HERE) 

salt and pepper
3 T clarified butter

2 c stock

2 cups demi-glace (DArtagnan sells it HERE, or reduce 1 gallon UNSALTED stock till thickened )

1 T fresh marjoram and/or thyme

½ c madeira ( I used New York Malmsey from Rare Wine Company)
1 T of Barbeito Malvasia Madeira Favilla Vieira 1920 (optional)

1 c foie gras (D’Artagnan sells a package of foie gras cubes HERE that is perfect for this)

1 small truffle, sliced or 1 t truffle oil (D’Artagnan sells them HERE) 

Herbs for garnish

Preheat oven to 400º and rub the pheasants with salt and pepper inside and out. Brush with butter. Lay birds on their sides and roast 15 minutes.  Turn to the other side and roast 15 minutes.  Put the birds on their backs and roast 20 minutes to ½ an hour until browned but not done.  Remove and allow to cool a little. Remove and pour out the stock into a skillet.  When cooled somewhat, carve the birds into serving pieces, 4 each and reserve.   Cut out the backbones and toss the backbones into the stock with the giblets (not the liver).  Add the demiglace and herbs and heat gently for ½ an hour, taste for seasoning and strain out the solids.

Put the pieces of pheasant into a covered dish, pour the reduction over the pieces of pheasant and add the madeira, foie gras and truffle.  Place a piece of foil on top of the pot and cover.  Cook in a 350º oven for 30 minutes or till warmed through.  Remove the lid at table for the glorious whiff of the madeira and truffle. I added the tablespoon of the old madeira at the table to get the full effect.

If you want to do it old school, make a paste with flour and water to seal the dish closed, bake it and then break it open at table.

             

           

 Pastry St. Honore


10 puffs
recipe for caramel
recipe for pastry cream
Creme Chantilly


Take the puffs and dunk them in the warm caramel. Split them and fill with pastry cream (or you can put a small hole in the pastry and fill with a pastry bag and tip). Serve with Creme Chantilly if you would like.

Pate A Choux (Cream Puffs)

8 tablespoons unsalted butter + 1 c water

1 cup all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

4 large eggs

1 t salt

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper; set aside. Heat the oven to 400º.

Combine the butter and water in a small saucepan, and set over high heat. Bring to a boil, and immediately add the flour and salt. Beat continuously with a wooden spoon until the dough comes away from the sides of the pan.

Transfer the mixture to the bowl of an electric mixer. Using the paddle attachment if you have one, add the eggs, one at a time. If you don't have one, a good strong hand mixer will do.

Place  mixture in a pastry bag fitted with a large tip. Pipe 2-inch balls, spaced 1 1/2 inches apart, on the prepared baking sheet.Cook for 25 minutes or until golden brown.  Remove from the oven and gently puncture each puff along the cut line to release steam.

For The Creme Patissiere (Pastry Cream)

2 cups milk or milk and cream mixed

1 t vanilla

6 large egg yolks

1/2 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

¼ c grand marnier

pinch salt

                         

Combine the milk and vanilla in a medium saucepan. Set pan over

medium heat, and scald the milk mixture. Remove the pan from heat,

cover.

In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and the sugar until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the flour, and continue whisking egg mixture until smooth.

Slowly pour the hot milk mixture into the egg mixture. Whisk this new mixture until it is smooth.

Return new mixture to pan, and place over medium heat. Bring mixture to a boil, whisking constantly; cook 2 minutes more.

Transfer the pastry cream to a bowl. Lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the pastry cream to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate until ready to use.

           

Caramel

1 c granulated sugar

¼ c water

pinch of cream of tartar

Prepare an ice-water bath, and line a baking pan with a silpat or foil.

Combine the sugar and water in a small saucepan with cream of tartar. Set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Swirl the pan occasionally until the sugar has dissolved. Continue cooking until the syrup is golden-amber. Remove pan from heat, and plunge bottom of pan in the ice bath to stop cooking (it can go from caramel to burnt sugar in seconds). Then put the pan in a bowl of hot water and use it for your puffs.


Also, if you want to make swirls with the caramel, double the recipe. Then drizzle caramel on the silpat and remove when it begins to harden, shape it as you will.

Crème Chantilly

2 cups heavy cream

½ cup confectioners' sugar

½  teaspoon vanilla extract

Whip the cream with the sugar and vanilla and set aside

.                      Thanks to Gollum for hosting Foodie Friday

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